Puno, Sillustani

Sillustani is a big pre-Incan and Incan cemetery, about 52 km west of Puno. I took the Collectivo (mini-bus) of which, half way, the wheel bolts had to be fastend. Gives a safe idea. I changed in Desvio to a taxi. In total about 3/4 of an hour. The collectivo was nice because I could talk Spanish with some women in the bus who wanted to know everything from me.

I was at 8:15 in Sillustani and it was very quiet because all organized excursions start at 14:00.

This is one of the nicest and most serene cemeteries I have ever seen. Not only because of the towers (some are 12 m high), but in particular because of its situation. It is situated on a hilly peninsula in an lagoon (Laguna Umayo). At one point I had a panoramic view of extraordinary quality. I tried to make pictures of it, but I think they are not representative for this view. Imagine: on the foreground rocks. Then the blue, perfectly flat, lake in which an island. The colour of the lake changes into green (algues?). A blue and white sky above it. Further away the island and a peninsula with some green. And at the horizon high white mountains. With this view you only can be silent. And if I say silent: everything was silent. The perfect place to meditate.

I met Delfina here with her sheep and Alpacas. We had a chat. She was able to trade with me for some Soles. One old Sol (for a new one). 4 10 € cent coins, for 1,6 Sol. A picture from her for 1 Sol, a folder of Sillustani (1 sol). Later she tried to convince me to give her my pensil and lips balsem. But with a laugh I could avoid that. We were 'amigos' and she teached me to use the swing. The same weapon with which David defeated Goliath, and which is an ancient weapon of the indians here. It is not very easy to use as a beginner. So the stone went straight up into the air and we were lucky that we were not harmed.

A beautiful place. The return trip started with waiting for a taxi (there is nothing, so patience helps). The taxi acted as a collectivo and picked up everyone along the road. After that, again a mini-bus to Puno. In total 4 Soles ($1,3).

A very nice experience, this visit.

 

Back in Puno I visited the Coca Museum. Very interesting with the complete history and cultures around this. The Coca leaves are already a favorite 'medicine' since about 20000 years. Only the last 120 years cocaine is extracted from it. In the museum also traditional costumes used for the many traditional dances which are part of the culture here.

 

Puno is a big and busy town. The centre consists of one main street connecting 2 plazas in which the restaurants and cafe's are situated. This street comes to life at sunset. But around the covered market it is also very cosy with many pollo-asadores. Chicken is the main food here. In the main street the shoe polishers do not understand why I do not want my mountain boots to be polished (bad for the Goretex). A guy of 10 years old: 'Mr. how do you feel? Good? But your shoes don't feel good. After I am finished they feel good' He was very convincing!!!

Further Puno has a harbor mainly used for trips to the islands.

 

In the afternoon I visited the MS.Yavari. A 38 m long (original) steam warship. In 1914 the steam engine is replaced by a Diesel engine. Exceptional on this ship is that is that it has been built in GB (1862). It is taken apart in 2766 pieces (together with a sistership) of 120 kg each, shipped to Peru and transported over the Andes mountains by mules. This trip took 6 years. In Puno it was assembled again. It was used as a warship in the war against Chili around 1870.

It is historically spoken a very interesting boat. It was one of 6 steel ships of the Peruvian navy. They are restoring it now and it will serve as a tourist cruise ship.

 

A very productive cultural day. Probably tomorrow I will go to Copacabana (Bolivia).